Adjustable Thingamabobber

[1mocast]

cool stuff!

For that stealthy presentation, my DIY solution is to reused part of cork stopper from a wine bottle or something, make a cut with a knife to the center, and drill out the center for a round tooth pick. Looks like wood so the fish don't get spooked too much.

For the normal hi vis, I use these. https://www.troutmagnet.com/store/Trout ... -8_18.html

[fflutterffly]

a friend of mine from Utah showed me this set up about two years ago, but instead of the nail knot he used a uni knot. This is a very easy system. When not in use I keep the knots up at my butt section and leader knot.

[briansII]

I've tried them Brian, they don't cast too good on a fly rod and they slip worse than an unpinned Thingamabobber!!!!!!

I wish I could argue these points, but since I don't use indicators/bobbers/strike detectors/whateveryouwanttocallem, I can't!

briansII

[NorcalBob]

<<<<I wish I could argue these points>>>>
Yeah, and I'm from the Government and I'm here to help!!!!

[briansII]

So I'm adding info to the thread.......and not just making wise cracks from the peanut gallery, I saw these indicators, or Indibobs as they are called.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INDIBOB-FLY-FIS ... 0339656900



As indicators go, I thought these were pretty cool. If they work like bobber stoppers, they should be adjustable, but not slide up and down from casting.

briansII

[NorcalBob]

They work really good and don't slide. The problem is, you can't remove them from your leader and replace them later (once on only). Since I break so many rods whilst transporting them in my car, I always try and store my rig in a hard case (OK almost always!), you can't reel the line up all the way into the reel, and can't break the rod down to put in a hard case with them on! Don't ask me how I broke my last rod (about a month ago!!!).
And Brian, I know that you know that I'm just giving you crap for "never fishing an indicator"!!!!
You sure seem to know an awful lot about them for a dude who never fishes them!!!

[Papasequoia]

Wait, so how do these work now? You tie your leader to the yellow thingy and then the whole contraption, yellow disc and mini red balloons, floats down the river and then you wait to see if the balloons jiggle then set the hook?

[bassman]

Okay, as a newcomer here and re-entry in trout fishing, I still have to get past the concept of "bobber" fishing to use indicators. I do know if I'd of used them on the White River awhile back I'd have caught a whole lot of the fish I just rolled. I guess my supersensitive hands aren't as sensitive to flies and trout as they are to 40# braid and a flippin' stick in the lilies. So, like a lot of oldtimers, I grew up tying all my own leaders. Now the youngsters and the older converts have me using furled leaders. I still step down from the furled leader with a length of 4x to 6x. If you use the system the guys in the video are using, aren't you limited by knots? Seems to me you can get by with a toothpick and float by moving it past knots, or are your indicators fairly close to the fly?

It's one of the many things I have to begin re-learning, which isn't always as easy as when I was a youngster. I missed a lot of fish on soft hackles, and didn't think of using a bobber......sorry......indicator with one. I also missed fish on nymphs that a bo...indicator would have helped me hook. I have caught more steelhead, salmon, and lake trout in running water than most people could dream of, but that was always with heavy lead and either yarn flies, rubber eggs, or....yes....spawn bags. Sorry, but that was 30 years ago in MN, WI, and MI and we didn't know any better. We used a lot of lead and heavy mono and you had a feel for the "munch" of steelhead, or the bang of a chinook, or the slurp of a lake trout so much better than floating these thread leaders with no weight. It's a bigger learning curve I'm undertaking than I thought it would be, but I'm willing to listen and learn.

[NorcalBob]

Yes, BassMan, they only work on an unknotted "virgin" factory tapered leader. Any knots, furls, etc, and they don't move very good over those. Toothpicks to peg the bobbicator would work out good in those situations you describe. But I'm like Brian, I don't use them, so I really wouldn't know!!!!

[briansII]

And Brian, I know that you know that I'm just giving you crap for "never fishing an indicator"!!!!
You sure seem to know an awful lot about them for a dude who never fishes them!!!

You mean you weren't serious?

Never said I didn't own some indicators. I have probably a 1/2 dozen different types, and used to carry some in my vest..........along with the kitchen sink. Just have not used one in a long time. I can count on one hand how many times I have used a indicator. Nothing against them.....some of my best friends use them. I'm sure there will be a time I will use one again. Me thinks stillwater midging.

I get a kick out of the old/tired debate to bobber, or not to bobber. Since it's been beaten to death, I may jump in on the to swing vs indi nymph wars.

FWIW, I learned to nymph without using an indicator. When I did try it, I found out it wasn't for me. I'm sure there are times when I catch less fish, but I'm ok with that.

briansII

[WadeK]

Alot of guys seem to try to use tapered leaders with bobbicators. When I use bobbicators, (typically toothpicked Lil'Corkys or ballons) I find they work far better on a flat leader. I typically run either slightly shorter than a full rod length or slightly shorter than 1.5 rod length of flat 2X or 3X tippet. I then ty 12-18" of 3X or 4X to that with a Blood knot. I ty the largest/heaviest of the flies I'll be throwing to the end of this. After tying both knots, I should have 8-12" between the Blood knot and the 1st nymph. I ty 16-24" of 4X or 5X to the bend of the 1st nymph. If I'm throwing 3 flies (RARELY) I ty my mid sized/weight nymph to the end of this. After tying both knots, I should have 12-20" between the 1st nymph and the 2nd. If Im throwing 3 nymphs I'll cut 20-26" of 5X or 6X tippet and ty it to the bend of the 2nd fly. The last fly is always the lightest/smallest. After tying both knots, I should have 16-24" between the 2nd nymph and the 3rd. By having the Weight/Size of the nymphs step down and the lengths of the tippets step up, I avoid the Bolo effect that creates those lovely tangles.
I put a split-shot above the Blood knot that is heavier than the heaviest fly and heavy enough to set the bobbicator down into the water, but not too heavy. This is important for a good drift, with the balloons you can watch wind drag the rig across the surface unnaturally if you don't have enough weight. The same happens to any bobbercator if it's not weighted enough, it's just not as noticable.
As for where to set the Bobbicator, at a minimum I set it the same distance from the splitshot as the last fly is from the split shot. If I need to go shallower, there are other methods that will work far better than a bobicator rig. Max depth is with the bobicator at the flyline. I can effectively cover 4-15' deep water with 3' feet being the PIA shallow cut-off and ~2 rod lengths being the PIA deep cut-off.

Hope this helps,
Wade

[FlyinFish]

Or try these:
http://www.thelongfin.com/carolina-keeper.html
http://www.superiortackle.com/product/c ... 1734-1.htm

I use them for pinning down a sliding sinker when fishing the salt. Should hold on a fly leader just as well. Most any saltwater tackle shop in SoCal will have them.