Welded Loops and Leader Connections

[NorcalBob]

GEEZ Brian, you sure are a You Tube 'ho !!!!!!!!!
We use both braided and welded loops. Braided loops goes on all our saltwater/striper stuff (but we make our braided sections much longer-at least 6" into the "chinese finger" sleeve) and don't strip the flyline coating off our welded loops (that way water can't get into the core and the extra coating helps float the tip better).

[briansII]

GEEZ Brian, you sure are a You Tube 'ho !!!!!!!!!
We use both braided and welded loops. Braided loops goes on all our saltwater/striper stuff (but we make our braided sections much longer-at least 6" into the "chinese finger" sleeve) and don't strip the flyline coating off our welded loops (that way water can't get into the core and the extra coating helps float the tip better).

Excuse me! Ho?

Agreed on the other stuff.

briansII

[dna]

What Midger said... and what Hip said about the double surgeon's...

[NorcalBob]

Ken was right and Alex was incorrect!!!!! Wonder if they corrected the score later to reflect Alex's mistake!!!!
And your YouTube response pretty much validated my comment!!!!

[gabe]

been meaning to make a braided loop with the Orvis Hy-Flote as a core, just haven't got around to doing it yet. I don't really care for the braided loops on anything 3wt and down. I find it changes the presentation for dries for the worst for my casting style, especially on the local creeks around here. the first vid you got there is pretty much what i did for my loop. but i just use tippet. i've also have used nylon thread for the lines under 3wt. that method works very well.
* side note, its a lot easier to strip the coating of fly line wrapping 7x tippet or thread around it pulling it off, stripping it that way.

[flybob]

Late comer, Sorry, like I said before Catching up is hard to do!

FWIW Rob, I have tried them all, sure they are easy to use but I hate loops getting hung up in the guides and tip top, yes sometimes I reel in too far trying to get that bruiser into my net. Not to mention the fact the they have a tendency to pick up muck and moss. (by the way, that was L-L I was using on Saturday and it was * me off!)

Out of frustration, I went into my shop and made a neat little tool that makes tying a nail knot a breeze......and that is exactly how my line goes through the guides, it breezes right through, the way it was intended to do!
I still have some Loop to Loops but I am slowly getting them back to nail knots as I replace my leaders.

I agree with Norcal, the reason we see a lot of these new techniques and gadgets is because people have a hard time mastering the old ones.

Like everything else about this sport, it is practice that brings you to the top of the game, I practice my knots. Now if I can just spend some time on my casting.....

Getting back to basics,
JMHO
Bob

[gabe]

you can also make nail knots a breeze with a piece of looped tippet to pull the tag end thru.

[stanbery]

you can also make nail knots a breeze with a piece of looped tippet to pull the tag end thru.

Or use a needle.

Jon

[meb]

Dave Whitlock published an article years ago in which he described how to create knotless connections. He also sold a kit and, probably still does, that has instructions and materials. I learned how to make two of them which were pretty cool. One is a technique where you insert the end of the leader in the center of the flyline and attach it with superglue. There's quite a few steps involved, but that's the end result. It creates the most seamless connection I have ever used. However, I like having a loop at the end of my flyline, and he has a pretty sweet way of doing that. It begins by removing the plastic coating of the flyline and, then using a needle, threading the core back through the flyline. It creates a core only loop, but I've used them for years without a failure on shad, trout, and steelhead. Neither technique uses knots or thread. However, again, I'm pretty lazy and have been using the welded loops that come with my new flylines, and they seem to work fine. If they wear or fail, I'll use one of Whitlock's loop procedures.

Mark

[rayfound]

Dave Whitlock published an article years ago in which he described how to create knotless connections. He also sold a kit and, probably still does, that has instructions and materials. I learned how to make two of them which were pretty cool. One is a technique where you insert the end of the leader in the center of the flyline and attach it with superglue. There's quite a few steps involved, but that's the end result. It creates the most seamless connection I have ever used. However, I like having a loop at the end of my flyline, and he has a pretty sweet way of doing that. It begins by removing the plastic coating of the flyline and, then using a needle, threading the core back through the flyline. It creates a core only loop, but I've used them for years without a failure on shad, trout, and steelhead. Neither technique uses knots or thread. However, again, I'm pretty lazy and have been using the welded loops that come with my new flylines, and they seem to work fine. If they wear or fail, I'll use one of Whitlock's loop procedures.

Mark

If I didn't use furled leaders... I would love the needle-flyline insert method. I would love to see anything more on the line-core loop method.



That being said, I've not really had and problems that guys mention about welded loops through the guides...I just haven't had the issue/never been bothered by it.

[meb]

rayfound,

It took me a while to find it, but the article that I referred to was from Fly Fisherman Dec. 2003. It shows exactly how to create both of those connections with pictures and text. I bought his kit at a fly fishing show where he was demonstrating how to make those same connections, but you don't need the it. I just bought it because he's seems like a nice guy and his wife bought me a cup of coffee.

Mark

[rayfound]

http://www.nwsalmonflyguild.org/inst/We ... 20Loop.pdf

http://www.hooked4life.ca/glsteelhead/M ... Loops.html

Well, I tried the welded loop on a DT00F, it worked, BUT... just barely... not as clean as I had hoped. I am thinking I may be running into a barrier because there is basically almost no PVC on a 00wt line at the front taper... its just a thin sheath over the dacron core.

Either way, I will try it out. seems like a decent enough bond.

[DubL HauL]

Loop Failure....

I'd like to report under stress of a big fish but not. I noticed my fly line had a crack just above the weld maybe a weak spot where the line hinged? Anyway Stanberry made a streamside repair and I'm now without a welded loop. Line is less than one year old 3wt.

Andy

[rayfound]

As a followup to andy... I've tried the welded loops, I've tried the loop connectors, and decided the loop for me is made with tying thread and the flyline looped over itself. a little superglue and they seem to last forever. (The "Whipped Loop" Video Brian Posted on P. 3)

Its very easy andy, you can do it.

[Rob909]

Loop Failure....

I'd like to report under stress of a big fish but not. I noticed my fly line had a crack just above the weld maybe a weak spot where the line hinged? Anyway Stanberry made a streamside repair and I'm now without a welded loop. Line is less than one year old 3wt.

Andy

What brand was the line Andy?


Rob