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Fly Line Repair - Help

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Fly Line Repair - Help

Postby fshflys » December 15th, 2011, 9:58 pm

My Fly Line has a break in the coating a couple inches from the loeader loop. (Darn wind knots). Is there anything I can use to repair it, or should I just do like some of you guys on the "Mean Wife" thread, go out & buy new fly line & give it to my wife for Xmas?
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Re: Fly Line Repair - Help

Postby Stewmon » December 15th, 2011, 10:50 pm

Cut it off clean below the damaged area and tie (Nail knot) on a piece of mono with a perfection loop.

Done deal.

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Re: Fly Line Repair - Help

Postby WadeK » December 16th, 2011, 8:59 am

Since you said a few inches, nail knotting a perfection loop works. If it's more than a 3-5 feet back you should go the mean wife route.
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Re: Fly Line Repair - Help

Postby leftfielder9 » December 16th, 2011, 9:03 am

Yeah thats the way to go. Just cut it and use a nail knot to attach from now on. I've done it several times and it works great.
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Re: Fly Line Repair - Help

Postby fly addict » December 16th, 2011, 9:23 am

If you are getting wind knots in your fly line you might need to change the way you cast. ;) You might try crazy glue and try and just fill the crack with it before you cut the tip back.

You may notice a difference in the performance in the line after you cut it back a few inches. Most fly lines have a straight tip section of 6” before the front taper begins. Cutting back 2” or 3” inches may change the way the line turns over. If it is used mainly for nymphing it might not matter, but if it is a line you use for dry fly fishing it could change the way it cast. I have a Wulff Triangle Taper line that comes with a straight running tip of 12”. They recommend that you not cut off any more than 3” at a time to tune the line turn over, and never cut more than 6” off the tip total.

As far as getting a new line for your wife on Christmas, she better fish, or have a good sense of humor!

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Re: Fly Line Repair - Help

Postby rayfound » December 16th, 2011, 9:28 am

Cut the tip off and make a new loop I'd say, I personally like tying-thread mad loops vs. mono loops or welded loops, but that is just me.

mark's probably right about it changing the casting dynamic, but I'm personally not a good enough caster to notice those details (Mark is).
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Re: Fly Line Repair - Help

Postby Jimbo Roberts » December 16th, 2011, 10:00 am

Doesn't anybody consider using Zap-A-Gap to glue their leaders into their flylines?
A good friend of mine, Joe Robinson, showed me how to do this about 20 years ago. Using this system you actually glue the leader inside the flyline core. It makes for a very smooth transition from flyline to leader. If you don't change your leaders often, like switching between mono for dryflys and fluoro for nymphs, then this makes a lot of sense. Also if you fish very light tippets or use long leaders of 10' or greater it is a big advantage. Having the welded loop or even a nail knot between your flyline and leader can create problems as it can get hung up in the rod guides when trying to land large fish on lighter tippets. It takes a little time and technique to do it right, but I think the outcome is worth it. The only real down side is that you will use about 1/2" of the flyline everytime you change leaders.

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Re: Fly Line Repair - Help

Postby briansII » December 16th, 2011, 10:31 am

Jimbo Roberts wrote:Doesn't anybody consider using Zap-A-Gap to glue their leaders into their flylines?
A good friend of mine, Joe Robinson, showed me how to do this about 20 years ago. Using this system you actually glue the leader inside the flyline core. It makes for a very smooth transition from flyline to leader. If you don't change your leaders often, like switching between mono for dryflys and fluoro for nymphs, then this makes a lot of sense. Also if you fish very light tippets or use long leaders of 10' or greater it is a big advantage. Having the welded loop or even a nail knot between your flyline and leader can create problems as it can get hung up in the rod guides when trying to land large fish on lighter tippets. It takes a little time and technique to do it right, but I think the outcome is worth it. The only real down side is that you will use about 1/2" of the flyline everytime you change leaders.

Jimbo


That's one of the cleanest connections I've seen. I've personally never done it(too lazy), but wouldn't hesitate to try in this circumstance.

http://www.warmwaterflytyer.com/pond.asp?page=4

IF you don't want to cut the line back, you could try repairing the separation. I'd try a flexible adhesive like Goop, or Aquaseal. The small area would need to be cleaned with alcohol, and maybe even lightly scuffed with fine sandpaper. Personally, I'd just look for a new line on sale/closeout. There's plenty out there for around $30.

FWIW, I'm not sure a wind knot in your flyline is causing the problem. It certainly could if you consistently get one in the same spot, but flylines have been known to fail right at, or just below the welded loop.

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