Welding Loops

[briansII]

I use a lot of shooting heads, so I thought I'd make a minimal investment to weld my own loops. Cost of a adjustable heatgun, and enough shrink tubing to last a lifetime, about $50.

This is a great series of videos, and started me down the right path.

Being that I use a lot of T lines(tungsten impregnated), my first attempts were these lines. And of course, they happen to be the most difficult lines to weld.

Not all T lines are created equal. I have some generic T-11 that I cannot weld, and still have good strength. Airflo T lines weld much easier, and stay strong. Rio should weld about the same, but I have not tried it yet.

Examples


Note that you can see the seam of the two lines joined together. I think I should dial up a bit more heat, but on a pull test, it seems very strong.


I added some white tying thread to identify this line as T-14. Then I put some flexible, UV cured epoxy over it.


I've already done two, floating, running lines, and will need to do two more. At some point in the near future, more T lines will need welded loops.....plus I have a few lines I'd like to switch from braided loops, to welded loops. Easy to justify the cost if I continue to buy new, or replace old flylines.

briansII

[meb]

I'm impressed. I've been watching the evolution of welding lines, mostly for steelhead lines, but I haven't done it yet.

Here's a pretty good site: http://www.hooked4life.ca/welding/welding.html

MB

[briansII]

I'm impressed. I've been watching the evolution of welding lines, mostly for steelhead lines, but I haven't done it yet.

Here's a pretty good site: http://www.hooked4life.ca/welding/welding.html

MB

That is Peter Charles, who made the videos I posted. I have never met the man, but our cyber paths crossed a number of years ago on a fly fishing, discussion group(rec.outdoors.fly fishing). Have not watched all the videos, but the ones I have, were enjoyable.

I re-welded the one end in my first post. I just put it in the heat shrink, and turned up the heat a bit more to get it fully fused. No more seam line.


I'm going to loop these T14 tips on a 575gr Skagit head, and see if they turnover medium sized Double Bunnies.....that is if I can even cast it at all?

briansII

[meb]

The loops look perfect to me. Most of the spey casting I do I use a Scandi and either polyleaders or straight mono, but I have a number of different tips and MOW tips that I've played around with with Skagit heads. I will probably take the time to learn how to weld the loops at some point. Right now I whip finish and cover with Aqualseal. I noticed that Marriotts in SoCal has a welding station, and I think they will weld loops at a cost.

I'd like to know how your tips work with the double bunnies.

Good luck,

Mark

[FlyinFish]

Very nice loops! That's a fantastic site for reference. I started looking for some braided mono to make my own loops that way and had no luck. They don't really make it for sale, except with a core that you have to strip out. At that point, it costs more to do that if you have to buy a whole spool.

I'm going to try some 100# hollow spectra, which should actually work pretty well, at least for tips. But the welded loops method will be my next method to try, if I can't get away with the cheaper methods.

For now I'm using the double nail knot and some goop method on my tips, and it's worked fine. It ain't as pretty, but it works.

Double bunny doesn't sound like a lot of fun, but you should be able to do it. I tried casting a Skagit minnow versus a regular old marabou fly, and it stuck to the water like a suction cup.

[rayfound]

Nice brian. I suspect the adjustable heat gun is key... my results with a flame were mixed a couple years ago.

Also, note this only works on PVC lines. Urethane lines won't work.

[RiverRat]

Thank you for posting this. Getting back into bass fishing and it will help!

shane

[briansII]

Most fly lines come with a factory, welded loop at the leader/head end. Most don't provide one on the back end that you attach to the backing. I'm going to spool a new running line tomorrow, and I like to attach the backing to the line with a loop to loop connection. Typically it's a bimini twist loop, or a triple surgeons loop in the backing, and a braided mono loop on the flyline. Now I can weld a loop.



There's a optical illusion where the line lays over the scissor handle. It looks thicker, when it really isn't. What isn't an illusion is the thinner sections on my 1st try. It's where it melted, and I rolled the line too much.


I cut it off and tried it again. Better.


Tomorrow I will try a few line, tips, and fly combos.

briansII

[briansII]

I'd like to know how your tips work with the double bunnies.

Good luck,

Mark

Double bunny doesn't sound like a lot of fun, but you should be able to do it. I tried casting a Skagit minnow versus a regular old marabou fly, and it stuck to the water like a suction cup.

I got out yesterday to try 10' of T14, and the Bunny flies. It worked just fine, and much better than using T11. It does take a lot more effort to lift and set your anchor.............and cast, but the T14 definitely can turnover a saturated rabbit strip fly. My Double Bunnies were tied with magnum bunny strips, and lead wire wraps. They are not BIG flies, but heavy, and stick in the water. After trying this setup, I'm not sure I wanted to spend all day spey chucking big bunny leeches.

My thoroughly picked over meat box(trout)with some Double Bunnies(olive/white)in it.


I switched to a small-ish Slumpbuster, and it was day & night difference. Much less power needed to pull off a cast.

briansII

[meb]

Thanks for the report. A fly tied with marabou of equal size would probably be easier to cast, but it sounds like your setup worked fine.

Mark

[briansII]

Thanks for the report. A fly tied with marabou of equal size would probably be easier to cast, but it sounds like your setup worked fine.

Mark

A marabou fly is a lot easier to cast. Tied right, you get a bulky profile, without the true bulk.

This week I was given this fly. It shows the big profile, but it would be much easier to cast than a bunny fly.



A little plug for Draggin' Flys.com http://dragginflys.com/

briansII

[meb]

That's kind of what I was thinking about. If you have confidence in it, it will probably catch fish.

BTW: I sent you a PM.

[NorcalBob]

Brian, I just saw this (been out chasing steel) and must warn you....... DO NOT heat weld Rio T-lines. They have a mono core and it's very easy to melt the mono a bit. At first they seem strong enough, but the mono will eventually weaken and fail after casting stresses. Stick with Airflo's T-lines, they have a braided core and weld beautifully!

[briansII]

Brian, I just saw this (been out chasing steel) and must warn you....... DO NOT heat weld Rio T-lines. They have a mono core and it's very easy to melt the mono a bit. At first they seem strong enough, but the mono will eventually weaken and fail after casting stresses. Stick with Airflo's T-lines, they have a braided core and weld beautifully!

That's good to know. The generic stuff I mentioned above must be Rio(bought it in bulk). On the pull test it failed every time, because the core had no strength.

So how did the chasing go?


briansII

[NorcalBob]

I think this might answer your question!!!