2wt vs 3wt: Is there a difference???

[littlefish]

Hey guys,

Planning to get another rod. (you guys! seriously! this is an addiction!) Either a 2wt or a 3 wt. Only considering a 3wt because Redington offers a cheaper alternative. Will I really notice the difference??? My casting is still okay at best.

Also medium action vs. medium-fast action vs. fast action, whats the deal? At bass pro, they recommended that medium-fast action is better for a newb, but didn't really explain the details as to why that is.

Want to use this for smaller streams and hopefully when I go backpacking up CTWL.

Best,
C

[BrownBear]

We have a pretty good rack of both. The thing you'll notice most in dropping from a 3 to a 2 is loss of casting distance. You really have to work at it to get a 2 to reach very far, but a 3 will not be that much of a departure from what you can do with a 4 or even a 5. But that's not a criticism! In fact a 2 will give you even more fun than a 3 for small casting waters, generally less than 40', and certainly less than 30'. You'll also make trout and other fish "grow" quite a bit with a 2. We fish for pink salmon (3.5# average) quite a bit with our 3WTs, any time it's not too windy. They give a satisfyingly long cast with the same streamers we throw with 4WTs, and they fight the fish well.

When we first got the 2WTs, I naturally tried them on the pink salmon. They wouldn't turn over the same flies so well, and I had to drop to smaller, lighter versions. When it came time to brawl with pink salmon, I have to say that the 2s were over-matched. You could do it, but fights lasted so long it really tired the fish excessively.

I have the good fortune of a long relationship teaching fly fishing classes for a local sporting goods store that stocks full lines of Echo, Temple Fork, Loomis, Scott, Winston and Sage rods. Before buying the 2's I availed myself of the privilege of casting their demos with a variety of lines. My wife did the same. Our casting styles and expectations of rods are quite different, yet we came to the same decision on those spindly little 2WTs. The Temple Fork Finesse rods beat the pants off everything else for distance, accuracy and power for fish fighting. That included the Sage Little One at $850. That's quite a statement when the Finesse retails for $189. You could buy 5 of the Temple Forks for about the same cost as a single Sage.

The store manager is a very good fly fisher and frequent fishing partner. He couldn't believe our selection, so he went back out with us to do it all over again. He now owns the Temple Fork Finesse, too! A couple of years fishing with the Finesse now is yet to make any of us regret the choice.

[fly addict]

Everybody will have an opinion on what rod to get, what might work for them may not be what you want. Some may be great casters and can cast 30’ without a rod, and others with the best rods made can’t form a loop!

You should try as many rods as you can before you buy. Go to a good flyshop like the Fisherman’s Spot or Marriotts and cast a few rods. It’s not like fishing but you will get a good feel for the rods you cast and the input from the guys working in those shops can help you with your decision. And don’t rule out the new fiberglass rods, especially for small streams. They are very responsive and load up well for most of the short casts you will be making on small streams where most of the time your cast will be under 20'. They also are a blast to fish with.

As a certified casting instructor I also recommend slower action rods for most fly fisherman. They will give you more feedback and control for most of the casting distance that most fly fisherman will make on small streams with small nymphs or dry fly fishing. A fast action rod is what you want for long distance casting or casting large heavy flies like streamers or fishing the surf etc.

If you want to improve your casting, take a casting class. Again shops and local clubs have good casting classes, some are even free. It is time and effort well spent. You may not catch more fish by becoming a better caster, but it will give you more opportunities to catch more fish.

Over the years I have purchased a lot of rods that I don’t have anymore. For one reason or another they just didn’t do what I wanted them to do. Some were way too fast for my taste. Some were good but I preferred something else and they were just collecting dust. Chances are you will make the same decisions, don’t sweat it. Ebay makes it easy to get rid of rods you’re not happy with!

[Ants]

Typically, the first rod is a must-have purchase so price and selectivity did not get a lot of attention. As the fly rod inventory increases, the tendency should be to be more selective and look for a best deal - the standard manufacturer or fly shop deal is not the best deal. After learning rod building, I could add a completed rod to my inventory for $100-150 (or less).

My fishing and rod preference keeps changing as my casting improves (Thanks to Mark and others) and I become more attuned to rod behavior.

In the 2-3 wt category, I have a TFO a Finesse ( thanks Hank), a 2-wt Batson built blank, and a bamboo and maybe a fiberglass that is marginally in the category. Some rods are better at roll casting along a stream lined with brush, but the slower rods seem more suited to hold those lively creek fish as they take every fly that hits the water. The creek fish hit hard so a slow set holds against the set and keeps the fish from launching. It seems a bamboo rod does that job well. ( even the $150 bamboo Rod with a Chinese built blank).

So, if you spend frugally, the opportunities to try various rods has lots of options. The Rod makers marketing favors the quickest, fastest, longest cast, etc. , but the real value is in the joy to fish the rod. So, cast a bunch. For 2-3 wt rods, see how the rod helps hit a target that is 10-20 feet away, that is all a creek may offer.

The events at the Long Beach Casting Club are excellent to test rods in the casting pond.

Steve Rajeff offered the same rod with different weight lines at one Marriot event. No single event will give all your answers, however, with time and rod in hand, the information will make sense to the most important caster - you.

Have fun!
Ants

[Baughb]

Have you thought of a Tenkara? I know, I know but as a bit of hiker, I found that a 13' tenkara, with a bit (10') of actual, level running line from a 4wtDT, attached to a tenkara leader of 16' and a length of tippet got the bugs out there easily and it is a compact little set up for backpacking. Enjoy finding the rod! The reels must be tiny as all get out.

Bob

[littlefish]

A couple of years fishing with the Finesse now is yet to make any of us regret the choice.

Thanks BrownBear! Will definitely try out this one if it's available at the local flyshop!

After learning rod building, I could add a completed rod to my inventory for $100-150 (or less).
The events at the Long Beach Casting Club are excellent to test rods in the casting pond.

I did think about rod building, but then dismissed it. I honestly thought I was getting way ahead of myself here since I've only been fly fishing for less than year. Plus the blanks I was looking at were at $400.

Do I need to be a member at Long Beach Casting Club to test rods and practice casts?

Everybody will have an opinion on what rod to get, what might work for them may not be what you want. Some may be great casters and can cast 30’ without a rod, and others with the best rods made can’t form a loop!

that cracked me up! Thanks for the info!

I took the casting class at Fisherman's Spot when I still had not idea what the heck I was doing and then most recently a surf casting class. Definitely got better after that one and learned what a single/double haul is.

Have you thought of a Tenkara? I know, I know but as a bit of hiker, I found that a 13' tenkara, with a bit (10') of actual, level running line from a 4wtDT, attached to a tenkara leader of 16' and a length of tippet got the bugs out there easily and it is a compact little set up for backpacking. Enjoy finding the rod! The reels must be tiny as all get out.

Bob

I did try a Tenkara and was kind of jealous how easily it can be packed! But it was way too simple and easy and got bored with it pretty quickly. I like a little drama with the fly line every now and then.

[fly addict]

Littlefish,
You don't need to be a member to practice at the LBCC, they don't really have any rods you would want to try, but most members who are casting on the pond won't mind letting you try one of their rods, just ask. They also have a free 5 week casting class coming up this fall. The dates haven't been posted yet,
http://www.longbeachcastingclub.org/

[briansII]

I like a little drama with the fly line every now and then.

With that in mind, I think you'll do just fine with whatever rod you choose.

To specifically answer your question, there isn't much difference between a 2wt, and 3wt. The 2wt line will be roughly 20 grains lighter then a 3wt. That's only .045 of an ounce. I suspect the biggest difference you would feel, is the rod's taper. Even within the same line of rods, a 2wt can feel much different than a 3wt.

Personally, if I wanted a rod to cast smaller flies, with the rare occasion casting medium hoppers or small streamers, i'd go with a 2wt. If I wanted to fish small to medium flies at about a 50/50 ratio, I'd go with a 3wt. It's not that a 2wt or smaller can't cast larger flies, but that 20 grains, and a slightly different taper on a 3wt just does it with more grace. IMHO.

briansII

[acorad]

Not much to add except there are plenty of perfectly good rod blanks out there that cost 1/10, or less, of the $400 blanks you were looking at.

Roger ebay is a good starting place, I've built 3 rods from his blanks and his 10' 2 wt has caught me more trout than any other rod I own...

Andy

[tenandtwo]

$.02 A few years ago when creeks used to have water near me, I always used a 2wt 80% of the time and a 4wt for certain spots for longer casts and nymphs/streamers. After using the 2wt the 4wt just seemed way to much rod for the creeks. I started taking a 3wt only because it is easier to switch 50/50 as BriansII said than set up and break down rods.

The 2wt is the most fun, but a bit limited. For CWL... Based on the 48 hrs I was there last month bring heavier rods as the weather can be less than perfect. If you get a chance to cast a few rods, go for what you like, I think wt is less important than the fun factor.

[WanderingBlues]

Don't stress over your decision; you'll end up with both, guaranteed.

[lucfish]

Don't stress over your decision; you'll end up with both, guaranteed.

That pretty much sums it up.

[RichardCullip]

Not much difference btwn a 2wt and a 3wt. One thing to consider is - which weight rod(s) do you already own? I ask because, as you build up your quiver of rods, take note that it is a bit hard to tell the difference btwn rods that are only 1 weight apart. However, it's fairly easy to feel the difference btwn rods that are 2 weights apart. So, if you already have an odd weight rod or two, stick with buying odd weight rods (1-3-5-7-9.....) until you run the series out to it's logical end. Then come back a fill in the gaps with even weight rods. Conversely, if you already own an even weight rod or two, stick with buying even weight rods (2-4-6-8-10-12.....) then fill in the gaps with odd weight rods.

[midger]

Not much difference btwn a 2wt and a 3wt. One thing to consider is - which weight rod(s) do you already own? I ask because, as you build up your quiver of rods, take note that it is a bit hard to tell the difference btwn rods that are only 1 weight apart. However, it's fairly easy to feel the difference btwn rods that are 2 weights apart. So, if you already have an odd weight rod or two, stick with buying odd weight rods (1-3-5-7-9.....) until you run the series out to it's logical end. Then come back a fill in the gaps with even weight rods. Conversely, if you already own an even weight rod or two, stick with buying even weight rods (2-4-6-8-10-12.....) then fill in the gaps with odd weight rods.

Great advice. After completely filling your quiver with each weight rod, then you can go back and start duplicating weights with 3 weight fast, 3 weight moderate, 3 weight slow, etc......... It never ends

[NorcalBob]

R's advice is solid. Start your * with a 2 wt skip and then once you get that completed go for every weight!!!! To be truthful, that's how I did it!!!

Not much difference btwn a 2wt and a 3wt. One thing to consider is - which weight rod(s) do you already own? I ask because, as you build up your quiver of rods, take note that it is a bit hard to tell the difference btwn rods that are only 1 weight apart. However, it's fairly easy to feel the difference btwn rods that are 2 weights apart. So, if you already have an odd weight rod or two, stick with buying odd weight rods (1-3-5-7-9.....) until you run the series out to it's logical end. Then come back a fill in the gaps with even weight rods. Conversely, if you already own an even weight rod or two, stick with buying even weight rods (2-4-6-8-10-12.....) then fill in the gaps with odd weight rods.