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PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby midger » September 23rd, 2008, 6:17 am

Benny wrote:Nice boat Midger, but does it have a trolling motor Image

Thanks for sharing



Yes, I have a Minkota Electric that can be hooked to the rear anchor mounting plate. I don't use it on rivers though unless they are very slow. It is equipped with a quick release drift boat anchor system though which is of more value to me.
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby bigirishllp » September 23rd, 2008, 7:49 am

[quote="midger"]

Image

Sure is nice for running heavy rivers in Idaho though, but not very backpackable. ;)

[quote]

Mike, just invite Zee along and promise him lots of big fish! :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby Benny » September 24th, 2008, 9:53 am

bigirishllp wrote:

Mike, just invite Zee along and promise him lots of big fish! :lol: :lol: :lol:


I would invite him and promise him the center seat for the entire float Image j/k
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby Benny » October 3rd, 2008, 6:29 pm

I noticed a difference in the framing on the two potoons does anyone know if there are any pros or cons on the shape of the framing. The Blue is the stainless steal frame and the Green is aluminum frame. I also noticed that the green outcast has a dual or quad chambers. Both are selling for the same price of $599 which sounds like an excellent deal.

Thanks

Image

Image
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby darrin terry » October 3rd, 2008, 6:53 pm

I do not know about pros/cons but, looking at the two, I think the differences may have been required due to the types of pontoons. The blue one has large diameter tubes and the frame, to some extent wraps the top to sort of cup the round surface. You will also sit a good bit higher out of the water with the blue one. Looking at the other, the two tube design of the pontoons seems to require the frame to set across the parallel tubes. You sit lower to the water as well. Perhaps if the platform sat down between the 'toons on this one it would have risked hitting the water under load? This is conjecture seeing as I have never even sat in one. One possible advantage to sitting lower is a little less wind resistance. Possibly minor, but it should be a factor.
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby Benny » October 3rd, 2008, 7:06 pm

Good observation Darrin. I just noticed that the blue looks as if it does sit higher. If and when I do get one of these toons I want to add a trolling motor as well. I really want to make sure I pick the right one. I'm thinking about resistance to the saltwater corrosion as well. Looking at both stats and they both way the same 75 lbs. What do you guys think will resist corrosion better aluminum or the stainless steel?
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby darrin terry » October 3rd, 2008, 7:15 pm

I would think the aluminum would be more resistant. Stainless steel, contrary to common belief, will rust. It has a very slightly lower carbon content than standard steels (I am also a bit of a knife fan and even looked into knife making in the past). Also a higher chromium content.

Stainless Steel link.
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby Benny » October 3rd, 2008, 10:38 pm

I keep looking and thinking. Trying to find which is better, but can't decide on which to getImage
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby darrin terry » October 3rd, 2008, 10:51 pm

Can't imagine what that's like. :roll:
How do you tie the fly to your hooks without killing them with the thread? I keep cutting them in half.
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby midger » October 4th, 2008, 6:39 am

Good luck in your search Benny. Make sure the oars and oar locks are solid, especially if you plan on rowing through any Class II or III water. The top picture looks like pretty lightweigh oars to me and I wouldn't want to use them personally. To see what I refer to go to:

http://westfly.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=530841#Post530841

You can see what lightweight oars can cause. I always carry a spare with me when rowing rivers.

I don't know about salt resistance of either, but imagine if you wash them off with fresh water after use, either would suffice. I do like more air chambers 2 is good, but 4 is better. It can keep you afloat long enough to get to shore. Also wind resistance is a big thing to consider. That's why many drift boat companies have went to low profile sides on their boats and if you are going to fish Crowley or other lakes where the wind will be a problem, think low.
"Should you cast your fly into a branch overhead or into a bush behind you, or miss a fish striking, or lose him,or slip into a hole up to your armpits-keep your temper; above all things don't swear, for he that swears will catch no fish."
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby Benny » October 4th, 2008, 8:40 am

Geez that kind of scarry Mike. I'd hate to become one of those guys that needs to be rescued. Another thing to consider is the construction and durability for sure.
Thanks for the link and information.
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby RichardCullip » October 4th, 2008, 10:15 am

I have both a pontoon boat (older-style Buck's Bag Bronco) and a float tube (Outcast Trinity) and like fishing from both. The pontoon boat is nice and stable, can travel some distance from launch point but it is heavy and awkward to transport. I can't carry or drag it very far so I make sure to use it only in places where I can park remarkably close to water (like at boat ramps). The float tube is built very light (less than 10lbs) and I could (if i wanted to) pack into high country lakes a few miles from the parking lot. It doesn't move quite as fast on the water but I've had great days of fishing out of it. It's awesome for slow trolling/drifting streamers. I've even used it down in San Diego Bay (under the Coronado Bridge) to great effect. The choice of which one to use really comes down to how close I can park to the water and how far I want to move once I'm on the water and how much spare room I've got in the truck.

One thing to note is that, in California, once you put a motor of any type on a pontoon boat you need to register it it with the DMV. As long as it is human-powered you don't need to register it but once that motor (electric or small gas) goes on it, it needs a CF number.
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby Benny » October 4th, 2008, 11:19 am

RichardCullip wrote:
One thing to note is that, in California, once you put a motor of any type on a pontoon boat you need to register it it with the DMV. As long as it is human-powered you don't need to register it but once that motor (electric or small gas) goes on it, it needs a CF number.


I have not seen any CF numbers on any of the pontoons with the trolling motors as of yet. I will keep looking though. How much would the registration be for a 9 foot pontoon. That kind of sucks...I guess if you want to play you've got to pay :(

Thanks
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby darrin terry » October 4th, 2008, 11:28 am

Benny, check this crap out:
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/fees/vessels.htm

Higher fees for odd numbered years?! :shock: :lol: :evil:
How do you tie the fly to your hooks without killing them with the thread? I keep cutting them in half.
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Re: PONTOONS vs. FLOAT TUBES

Postby Benny » October 4th, 2008, 11:42 am

The DMV is so full of it. Who makes up these rules?
And these registration fees are on a yearly basis, correct...WOW
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